Nearby places

Linking these places into one Chinatown walk

The places listed above sit within a few compact blocks, so they work best as a single unhurried walk instead of separate trips. A natural starting point is the Dragon Gate at Grant Avenue and Bush Street, the ceremonial entrance most visitors photograph first. From there, Grant Avenue runs north through the oldest commercial stretch of Chinatown, lined with shops selling teapots, dried goods and kitchenware. It is a good place to browse for a carbon-steel wok, a bamboo steamer or a cleaver if you are building out a home kitchen.

Old St. Mary's Cathedral stands at the corner of California Street and Grant, just a short walk up from the gate. Its brick tower is one of the few buildings in the area that survived the 1906 earthquake and fire. Continue north and turn onto Waverly Place, a short street known for its painted balconies. Tin How Temple occupies an upper floor there. If you visit, keep your voice low, ask before taking photographs, and treat it as a working place of worship.

Ross Alley, home to the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory, is one of the narrow lanes between Grant Avenue and Stockton Street. Watching cookies being folded by hand shows how simple the batter really is, and how quickly it sets once it leaves the griddle. Portsmouth Square, a block east on Kearny Street, is often called Chinatown's living room. Early in the day you will often see older residents playing cards and Chinese chess or practising tai chi. The Chinese Culture Center sits across Kearny, connected to the square by a pedestrian bridge.

Practical tips

• Go early. Mornings are when produce markets and bakeries are busiest and freshest, and the streets are calmer for walking.
• Carry small bills. Some small shops and bakeries prefer cash, so it helps to have it on hand.
• Check hours before you go. Opening times and admission at the museum, temple and tea rooms can change, so confirm on their official sources.
• Leave the car. Parking is tight. Public transit or walking from nearby neighborhoods is usually easier.

When you get home, recreate what you tasted with our home-style recipes. If you want a gentle first wok dish, try tomato and egg.